More Istanbul

We are berthed at Kalamis/Fenerbache marina, on the Asian shore but easily able to travel and see the sights. Istanbul remains one of our favourite cities, despite the crush of its huge population, which does tend to overwhelm on weekends and holidays. The marina is situated in an affluent suburb and the surrounding cafe society is like any other city, even Brisbane. We have been busy preparing for our Black Sea adventure, and have experienced some frustrations. To top up fuel, the only option was to lug jerry cans to the nearest service station and taxi them back to the yacht, all 200 ltrs! It is has not yet been possible to find top up for our greek gas bottles, a matter of some concern. We ran foul of the rudest beaurocrats at the Russian consulate when attempting to apply for a visa; the kept us waiting in a queue outside their carefully concealed front door and when admitted they shouted and shook their fists when we weren`t able to prove we had an invitation to visit. So we will not be going to Russia. The Georgians, on the other hand, couldn`t have been more helpful. And today we planned to carry out the necessary procedures for departure from Turkey, but of course it is a public holiday for mothers and children. We have therefore had more time to revisit some of the sights and explore new ones. This really is an excting city. When we finally are able to get under way, we will have to negotiate the Bosphorous, a very narrow channel running north to the Black Sea, once again avoiding many enormous merchant ships and battling an opposing current of up to 3.5 kts. It will be an interesting day.

Istanbul

We have arrived at Istanbul. The marina is on the Asian side at Kalamis/Fenerbahce, and it has been another upwind beat, though we did have to motor for some time for lack of wind. Very cold and overcast much of the way. More to follow.

Transit of the dardanelles and into the Sea of MarmaraJ

Jack Tar has made it from Ayvalik to the Sea of Marmara via the Dardanelles, an exceptionally busy strait with many merchant ships transitting to and from Istanbul and the Black Sea. Naturally, despite a favourable forecast, the wind turned and blew from right ahead at a steady 15 - 20 kts and so we battled that and a current against us of up to 3.5 kts. Enroute, after a night sheltering from the wind in a bay near Assos, opposite Lesvos Is., we overnighted on the island of Bozcaada, just short of the strait, and then at Gelibolou at the north end, and then at Karabiga, a town on the Asian shore of the Sea of Marmara. Today we have tacked upwind a short distance to the island of Avsas. The weather has been sunny but cold i.e. 12 -15C, with a significant chill factor. We are told that this is unseasonable weather. No consolation.

North to Ayvalik

No sooner had we set out again from Turgetreis, than the nav system fell over again. Another visit to the marina saw Ahmet restore the system to operation, but without diagnosing exactly what the problem was. While waitng there, friends on a Kiwi yacht came in with problems with their nav system. What is it about the Catalada Channel? So we have continued north with fingers crossed and so far so good. Unfortunately, the delay in Turgetreis saw the meltemi set in quite strongly from the north so we have had an upwind beat all the way which has meant too much tacking and dealing with contrary wind speed and direction and lots of shipping. [We must use canvas power whenever possible to minimize the cost of diesel fuel which is $3/ltr at present.] We came via Kusadasi and Cesme and several lovely sheltered anchorages to Ayvalik where the crew are enjoying some R & R. Our next leg should see us sailing north up the coast to the island of Bozcaada and then transitting the Dardenelles into the sea of Marmara and across to Istanbul.

Northbound, finally!

Jack Tar is underway and bound north for Istanbul and the Black Sea. Our new anchor winch is finally in place and has already proven its worth. the Queen of the Forecastle is extatic. We have managed to sail [rather than motor] most of the way to our present location at Turgetreis not far from Bodrum. We have travelled via Simi [a Greek Island] and Bodrum. We are here for an unscheduled stop due to a failure of the navigation system which left us with no gps, speed,depth,wind information or auto pilot. The problem has now been resolved with the assistance of a local electronics ace and was found to be a faulty cockpit display recently purchased in Australia and installed on our return. Unfortunately we lost the system when sailing through a narrow reef strewn channel in a wind gusting to 20 kts with rain. Disconcerting.

More Marmaris Scenes

Jack Tar is ready for sea except for the installation of our new anchor winch which progresses slowly, very slowly. However time has allowed the completion of other maintenance which was to have been undertaken enroute. Discussion with other yachties who have visited the Black Sea indicate that our visit should be perhaps even better than we have anticipated, as, without exception, they all had a fabulous time. So we are anxious to be under way.

More Marmaris News

The First Mate [ Queen of the Fo`csle ] has arrived and final preparations including the installation of a new anchor winch are under way. Things progress slowly here and happen "Insh Allah" [ if thats how it is spelled ]. We will soon be ready to depart so look forward to making our way north before the meltemi sets in. In the accompanying photos you will see the new name signwriting and our new array of solar panels.