Friday, May 30, 2008

Bourgas to Varna












While here we have discovered that prices generally are very cheap, particularly in chandleries, so we have been stocking up. Diesel fuel is about 2/3 of that in Turkey. Bulgarian wine varies in quality but some is very good and cheap, about AU$ 5 a bottle. Liquor is also very cheap. We enjoyed Bourgas in the spring as it was a beautiful green city, but the foliage masks grey buildings and in winter it would be a bleak place. A bus trip to nearby Sozopol old town was a highlight, with old Bulgarian wooden houses surrounding a pretty port and lovely crescent shaped beach. On departure we motored into a headwind to Nesebar, another old town, almost an island connected by a narrow isthmus to the nearby modern highrise resort of Sunny Beach which caters to hordes of British and European package tourists. Nesebar is a very pretty old place which is heritage listed by UNESCO. The buildings are all in traditional style and the many ruins have been partially restored. It is well worth the visit, but under the surface it is about 200 acres of souvenir shops and restaurants. From Nesebar we again motor sailed in light winds to Varna, another port city, where we berthed at the cruise ship terminal. Varna is another lovely green city with miles of pedestrian malls lined with shops and restaurants, and large green parks and beautiful squares, but again with many though not all grey buildings. Throughout Bulgaria, the Communist era infrastructure is crumbling in disrepair with many buildings unoccupied and derelict. The port Captain here in Varna likens Bulgaria`s current situation to that of a car on a long journey; having just left the dirt, the road is better but not yet a highway and the vehicle is old and in need of maintenance and it will be while before they reach the freeway and can afford a new car.

Saturday, May 24, 2008

Passage to Bulgaria










































































































Dealing with Turkish beaurocracy when attempting to complete our exit procedure in Istanbul was a nightmare. Suffice it to say that we would not like to have to repeat the experience. An early departure from Kalamis/Fenerbache marina saw Jack Tar passing through the shipping and ferry traffic of the entrance to the Bosphorus during peak hour and at the same time battling a four knot current. It was fun! Passage up the Bosphorus was a delight; it has to be one of the most attractive waterways in the world, lined with beautiful homes, all sorts of yachts, motor yachts, fishing boats and commercial vessels as well as lush green vegetation and old historical forts and palaces. Unlike the blue Agean the waters of the Black Sea are green and turquoise, and on entry we found no wind and motored west through about 100 ships waiting their turn to transit the Bosphorus. The Turkish coastline was largely featureless and the hinterland scarred by open cut brown coal mining for much of the way. Motor sailing in light and variable winds with overnight anchorages at Karaburnu and Igneada saw us to the Bulgarian border where the southern coast proved to be quite beautiful, with green forrested hills sloping down to the sea, golden beaches and pretty towns. No wonder this part of Bulgaria is beginning to thrive on foreign tourism; new construction everywhere. Arrival and entry routine at Bourgas proved easy with officials friendly and co-operative, and we found ourselves berthed at the local yacht club soon thereafter. And for a big city bourgas is quite attractive, so we`ll spend a couple of days here. Our first night saw the locals celebrating families day and end of high school year.

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Departure from Istanbul

After much preparation, we are about to depart from Istanbul today 21 May for the Black Sea. Our first port of call should be Bourgas in Bulgaria, a shipping port but one where we can undergo oue entry clearance.

Monday, May 19, 2008

More Istanbul
















We are berthed at Kalamis/Fenerbache marina, on the Asian shore but easily able to travel and see the sights. Istanbul remains one of our favourite cities, despite the crush of its huge population, which does tend to overwhelm on weekends and holidays. The marina is situated in an affluent suburb and the surrounding cafe society is like any other city, even Brisbane. We have been busy preparing for our Black Sea adventure, and have experienced some frustrations. To top up fuel, the only option was to lug jerry cans to the nearest service station and taxi them back to the yacht, all 200 ltrs! It is has not yet been possible to find top up for our greek gas bottles, a matter of some concern. We ran foul of the rudest beaurocrats at the Russian consulate when attempting to apply for a visa; the kept us waiting in a queue outside their carefully concealed front door and when admitted they shouted and shook their fists when we weren`t able to prove we had an invitation to visit. So we will not be going to Russia. The Georgians, on the other hand, couldn`t have been more helpful. And today we planned to carry out the necessary procedures for departure from Turkey, but of course it is a public holiday for mothers and children. We have therefore had more time to revisit some of the sights and explore new ones. This really is an excting city. When we finally are able to get under way, we will have to negotiate the Bosphorous, a very narrow channel running north to the Black Sea, once again avoiding many enormous merchant ships and battling an opposing current of up to 3.5 kts. It will be an interesting day.

Friday, May 16, 2008

Istanbul







We have arrived at Istanbul. The marina is on the Asian side at Kalamis/Fenerbahce, and it has been another upwind beat, though we did have to motor for some time for lack of wind. Very cold and overcast much of the way. More to follow.

Monday, May 12, 2008

Transit of the dardanelles and into the Sea of MarmaraJ
















Jack Tar has made it from Ayvalik to the Sea of Marmara via the Dardanelles, an exceptionally busy strait with many merchant ships transitting to and from Istanbul and the Black Sea. Naturally, despite a favourable forecast, the wind turned and blew from right ahead at a steady 15 - 20 kts and so we battled that and a current against us of up to 3.5 kts. Enroute, after a night sheltering from the wind in a bay near Assos, opposite Lesvos Is., we overnighted on the island of Bozcaada, just short of the strait, and then at Gelibolou at the north end, and then at Karabiga, a town on the Asian shore of the Sea of Marmara. Today we have tacked upwind a short distance to the island of Avsas. The weather has been sunny but cold i.e. 12 -15C, with a significant chill factor. We are told that this is unseasonable weather. No consolation.

Tuesday, May 6, 2008

North to Ayvalik
















No sooner had we set out again from Turgetreis, than the nav system fell over again. Another visit to the marina saw Ahmet restore the system to operation, but without diagnosing exactly what the problem was. While waitng there, friends on a Kiwi yacht came in with problems with their nav system. What is it about the Catalada Channel? So we have continued north with fingers crossed and so far so good. Unfortunately, the delay in Turgetreis saw the meltemi set in quite strongly from the north so we have had an upwind beat all the way which has meant too much tacking and dealing with contrary wind speed and direction and lots of shipping. [We must use canvas power whenever possible to minimize the cost of diesel fuel which is $3/ltr at present.] We came via Kusadasi and Cesme and several lovely sheltered anchorages to Ayvalik where the crew are enjoying some R & R. Our next leg should see us sailing north up the coast to the island of Bozcaada and then transitting the Dardenelles into the sea of Marmara and across to Istanbul.