Danube Delta and on to Odessa

Our passage through the Danube delta and on to Odessa has been a real highlight of the journey so far; exhilarating, fascinating, frustrating, stimulating, disappointing and traumatic. On departure from Mangalia, we planned an overnight anchorage in the lee of a sandspit short of the entrance to the main arm of the delta. On arrival there, the geography bore no resemblance to that on our paper and digital charts. A conspicuous wreck offshore was now landlocked, high and dry and the spit had extended for several miles. We crept as near as we dared and fortunately the wind and sea were calm, so had a comfortable night. Entry to the delta took us to Sulina, a small town supplied essentially by boat and where the main event of the day is the arrival of the afternoon ferry from Tulcea, upstream, and, like most delta towns overshadowed by crumbling, rusting relics of the communist era. Onward to Tulcea we passed magnificent scenery and saw unusual villages where the residents lived in peasant style dwellings. The bird life in the wetlands was prolific and just like that on the Noosa River. Tulcea is a large town and centre for delta tourism, and where the river is lined with a mixture of tourist boats, ferries, so-called floating hotels, industry of all kinds, and shipyards small and large {they build large ships]. The river is alive with boat traffic and kept us on our toes. There were no vacant berths and we finally managed to secure alongside the Republica, an early 1900`s Mississippi River paddle wheeler, now a floating hotel, bar and restaurant. On departure from Tulcea, we left Romania and, having fought against the 1.5-2.5 kt downstream current to that point, went down the northern arm of the delta at great rate to Ismail, the first town in Ukraine. Officials there have a reputation for being difficult to deal with and lived up to it. We were refused entry to Ukraine, even though we had visas, on the dubious grounds that on a Saturday, there was no agent to deal through and no doctor available for health checks and in any case our visa was just not the right kind. So, disappointed and not being prepared to offer backsheesh, we motored downstream to an anchorage. The next day we attempted to exit the delta via the recommended passage described in the pilot guide and shown on charts at Ust Dunaysk. After running aground in the river and reaching the exit only by hugging the outside bends to, literally, spitting distance we discovered a scene which would have done a Mad Max movie justice. Rusting barges, huge shipping buoys, debris in the shallows all around and no depth of water for our two metre draft. This on a grey overcast day. Stimulating. After running aground again several times, we retraced our steps and after finding a tug master who had a little English, found that a new channel was now being used. So we finally left the delta and had a great overnight sail north to Odessa, where entry formalities took five hours! Our first impressions Of Odessa, where we are berthed at a yacht club marina, are of an attractive big city, and we look forward to exploring it.